At the heart of Itchan Kala, the historic district of Khiva inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage list, the Kunya Ark citadel occupies the northwestern corner of the fortified city. Its name means "the old fortress": this is where the khans of Khiva resided, governed and dispensed justice. The complex combines in one place palaces, mosques, harem, mint, prison and watchtower.

Why Visit Kunya Ark

The citadel condenses several centuries of Khivan power across its successive courtyards. It offers insight into how a Central Asian khanate functioned: where ambassadors were received, where deliberations took place, where currency was minted, where justice was administered. It is also one of the few places in Khiva from which the old city can be viewed from above, by climbing to the top of the watchtower.

History of the Fortress

Kunya Ark was founded between 1686 and 1688 during the reign of Khoudayd-khan, son of Anouchkhan, one of the last sovereigns of the Shaybanid dynasty to rule Khiva. Conceived as "a city within a city," it was protected by high crenellated walls of rammed clay and housed its own stables, workshops, warehouses and guard posts.

The citadel suffered significant damage during Iranian raids in the 18th century, then was restored and enlarged. Most of the structures visible today, including the mint and the two mosques, date from the 19th century. The harem was developed in the second half of that century, under Moukhammad Rakhim-khan.

The plaza in front of the entrance served for military training and parades, as well as public executions. Those condemned were first imprisoned in the Zindon, the jail built against the rampart.

What to See in the Citadel

The Zindon

Before even entering the main gate, a small low-slung building stands to the left: this is the former prison. Chains, shackles and weapons used to punish inmates are still displayed here.

The Four Courts

A long corridor runs through the citadel and connects four successive courtyards:

• the first welcomed ambassadors awaiting audience;
• the second served as a storehouse for defensive cannons;
• the third housed the sessions of the Khanate Council;
• the fourth, the largest, was the kourinichkhana or reception hall.

Opposite the entrance to the kourinichkhana open the accesses to the harem and to the Ak-Cheikh-Bobo hill, topped by a bastion that offers a view over old Khiva.

The Summer Mosque

Taking the first corridor to the right after the entrance, you reach the open-air summer mosque. Its blue and white faience tiling, its ceiling with red, orange and gold hues, its broad wooden-columned aivan-veranda, its mihrab, minbar and lateral towers make it the most striking architectural element of the citadel. A small exhibition dedicated to Khorezm archaeology is installed there. The adjacent winter mosque, for its part, holds little artistic interest.

The Mint

Founded in the 19th century, the former workshop where the khanate's currency was minted is today transformed into a museum. It brings together banknotes, coins, medals and decorations. The most singular piece remains money printed on silk, a rarity in Uzbekistan. Note: the display panels are written only in Uzbek.

The Throne Room and Watchtower

Facing the entrance to the Ark, the throne room is likewise arranged in the open air, behind a tiled portico (aivan). This is where the khan rendered his decisions. In its rear right corner, a small door leads to the watchtower, the oldest surviving structure of Kunya Ark. Climbing it affords a panorama over all of Itchan Kala.

Practical Information

Kunya Ark is located just to the left after the western gate (Ata Darvaza) of Itchan Kala. The fortress is easily recognized by its high walls and imposing main gate. Allow approximately 1 to 1.5 hours to tour it, longer if you take time to climb the watchtower.

The site is open daily during daylight hours. Entrance is generally included in the combined ticket for Itchan Kala; access to the watchtower is subject to a small additional fee payable on site. Rates and hours change: it is advisable to verify them at the entrance to the historic district.

When to Visit

Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer the most pleasant visiting conditions, when desert heat remains manageable. In summer, it is best to favor early morning. Late afternoon is the ideal time to climb the watchtower: the slanting light highlights the minarets and madrasas of Itchan Kala, and the sunset over the old city is particularly striking from this vantage point.

Nearby

Kunya Ark is visited in continuity with the other monuments of Itchan Kala, all accessible on foot:

• the Islam Khodja minaret, Khiva's highest point;
• the fortified complex of Itchan Kala in its entirety;
• the city of Khiva and its outer district Dichan Kala.

To extend the itinerary across Uzbekistan, you then head to Bukhara and Samarkand, where the Gour Emir mausoleum, Timur's tomb, stands.

Frequently Asked Questions

Plan Your Visit

Kunya Ark is a key stop on any Khiva itinerary. To include it in a wider circuit encompassing Bukhara, Samarkand and the Fergana Valley, consult our customized travels in Uzbekistan.