Tashkent

Capital of 2.9 million inhabitants where the 7th-century Quran of Othman, the mosaic-lined metro from 1977, and the blue cupola of Chorsu Bazaar tell the story of three overlapping Uzbekistans.

Tashkent is the capital of Uzbekistan and the largest city in Central Asia, home to approximately 2.9 million inhabitants. Situated at the foot of the western Tian Shan foothills at 450 meters elevation, it spreads across the Chirchik Valley, a tributary of the Syr Darya River. The city was almost entirely reconstructed following the earthquake of April 26, 1966, which destroyed the historic center and displaced over 200,000 people. This explains its present-day character: wide avenues, Soviet-era prefabricated panel buildings, and monumental squares such as Independence Square and Amir Timur Square.

The contrast with Old Tashkent, to the west of the city, is striking. The Khast Imam quarter concentrates centuries of Islamic history: the 16th-century Barak Khan madrassa, the mausoleum of Kaffal Shashi, and above all the library housing the Quran of Othman, a 7th-century parchment manuscript considered among the world's most ancient complete Qurans. Nearby, Chorsu Bazaar, crowned by a blue dome spanning 300 meters in circumference, remains the reference market for locals: here one still purchases flatbread naan, spices, Mirza-chul melons, and lamb cut fresh on the spot.

Tashkent is also a Russian-speaking and multicultural city. The presence of Russian, Korean (deported in 1937), Tatar, Uyghur, and Armenian communities is evident in its neighborhoods, restaurants, and even cuisine. Alongside plov, the national rice dish with yellow carrots and lamb, you'll find Korean markets selling local kimchi, Soviet-era Russian cafés, and Uyghur canteens serving laghman, hand-pulled noodle soup.

Tashkent's metro, inaugurated in 1977, deserves special attention. It is Central Asia's oldest and the only one built in a high-seismic-activity zone. Its 29 stations are decorated with mosaics, ceramic chandeliers, and bas-reliefs on varied themes: space exploration at Kosmonavtlar station, literature at Alisher Navoi, cotton at Pakhtakor. For years, these stations were classified as military installations, and photography remained forbidden until 2018.

On the contemporary front, the Yangi Shahar district and the Tashkent City complex, completed since 2020, bring together glass towers, international hotels, and a central park. This is where the country's economic transformation since its 2017 opening is most visible. In contrast, neighborhoods like Chilanzar or Sergeli preserve the typical organization of Soviet microrayons, with their interior courtyards, neighborhood schools, and chaikhanas—teahouses where men gather around the samovar.

For our team, Tashkent is far more than an air-travel gateway. It is the city that allows you to understand the layers of modern Uzbekistan's history: Timurid heritage in the madrassas, the Soviet trauma and reconstruction, post-1991 identity redefinition. A day and a half well organized, at the beginning or end of your itinerary depending on flight schedules, provides the necessary context for approaching Samarkand, Bukhara, or Khiva.

What to Discover

Khast Imam Complex and the Quran of Othman. The 16th-century Barak Khan madrassa and the library where the Quran of Othman—a 7th-century parchment manuscript attributed to the third caliph of Islam—is displayed under glass.

Chorsu Bazaar beneath its blue dome. Central market organized on multiple levels: spice and dried fruit floor, meat hall in the basement, outdoor aisles for watermelons and uncooked flatbread from tandyr ovens.

Decorated metro stations. An hour-long loop allows you to see Kosmonavtlar (blue mosaics featuring Gagarin), Alisher Navoi (ceramics inspired by madrassas), and Pakhtakor (cotton-themed relief motifs).

Museum of Applied Arts. Housed in the former residence of Russian diplomat Alexander Polovtsov from the early 20th century, featuring painted ceilings, sculpted ganch plasterwork, and a collection of suzanis, traditional embroideries from Bukhara and Shakhrisabz.

Korean neighborhood and deported cuisine. At Kuyluk Market, Koryo-saram stands sell cabbage kimchi, spicy carrot salads, and morkovcha, the culinary heritage of Koreans relocated from the Soviet Far East in 1937.

When to Visit

Tashkent has a semi-arid continental climate with marked seasons. The best windows are April-May and September-October, with daytime temperatures of 18 to 28°C, flowering trees in spring, and markets overflowing with melons and grapes in autumn. Summer, from late June to late August, is very hot: 35 to 40°C in the afternoon, sometimes reaching 42°C, with dry, dusty air. Outdoor visits become challenging between noon and 5 p.m.

Winter, from December to February, regularly dips below freezing at night (-5 to -10°C) with daytime temperatures around 3 to 7°C, occasionally with slush. Annual precipitation remains modest (440 mm) but concentrates between March and May. For those extending into the Fergana Valley or the neighboring Tian Shan mountains, expect 5 to 10°C cooler temperatures at altitude in Chimbulak or Beldersai, where snow holds from December to March.

Practical Advice

A day and a half to two days suffice for Tashkent. Islam Karimov International Airport is the country's primary entry point, with direct flights from Paris, Frankfurt, Istanbul, and Dubai. From the city center, allow 20 to 30 minutes by car. The city lends itself well to a visit combining walking and metro travel, plus a few taxi rides to distant sites like Khast Imam or the memorial to victims of repression.

Tashkent naturally connects with the rest of your circuit: the Afrosiyob high-speed train reaches Samarkand in 2 hours 10 minutes, Bukhara in 4 hours, and a 1.5-hour domestic flight serves Khiva via Urgench. For travelers with more time, the Fergana Valley is reachable in 5 hours by road via the Kamchik Pass (2,268 m). Hotel comfort levels are good, with a recent supply of international properties and boutique hotels in renovated buildings. The city suits history and Soviet architecture enthusiasts, families (parks, easy-to-navigate metro), less so contemplatives who prefer heading straight to the Silk Road oasis cities.

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